| wing my introduction to the quaint and historic | | | | location of frequent dinners of the French settlers |
| town of Annapolis Royal I drove about 10 | | | | and Mi’kmaq natives. The “Order |
| kilometers out of town across the causeway on | | | | of Good Cheer” was the first European |
| the north shore of the Annapolis River and | | | | social club, founded to while away the long dark |
| arrived in one of the most historic locations in | | | | winter nights. Prominent members of the colony |
| north-eastern North America. Port-Royal is a | | | | took turns preparing a feast, arranging |
| reconstruction of a settlement – a | | | | entertainment and preparing delicacies such as |
| “Habitation” of French settlers | | | | fricasseed beaver tail and boiled moose nose. |
| founded in 1605 by Sieur de Mons and Samuel de | | | | Despite the harsh conditions at the early |
| Champlain and one of the earliest successful | | | | settlement, culture was present at Port-Royal. A |
| European settlement attempts in North America. | | | | Parisian lawyer by the name of Marc Lescarbot, |
| The settlement existed until 1613 when it was | | | | spent the winter of 1606-1607 at the Habitation |
| burned to the ground by Captain Samuel Argall of | | | | and wrote a play called “The Theatre of |
| Virginia. | | | | Neptune” which was first performed in |
| My expert guide for this introduction to early | | | | November of 1606. He also chronicled life in the |
| French life in Canada was Wayne Melanson, a | | | | habitation and his records provide great insight into |
| ninth generation Acadian and twin brother of Alan | | | | the daily challenges of early French settlers. |
| Melanson who I had already met at Fort Anne | | | | Wayne then introduced me to the second-story |
| during my initial discoveries of Annapolis Royal. | | | | dormitory that at the time would have held about |
| Interestingly, on my drive to Port Royal I noticed | | | | 30 craftsmen, including joiners, carpenters, |
| a sign saying “Melanson | | | | masons, stonecutters, locksmiths and iron |
| Settlement”, a National Historic Site of | | | | workers. These men were required to work |
| Canada which indeed refers to the forefathers of | | | | three hours a day at their trade and could use |
| today’s Melanson family. When I | | | | the rest of their time to go fishing, hunting or |
| connected with Alan and Wayne Melanson, I | | | | tend their gardens. A foot-powered spring pole |
| realized that I had tapped into a piece of living | | | | lathe was made to turn wood and create objects |
| history and was excited to learn more about their | | | | such as spindles, goblets and candlesticks. Wayne |
| story. | | | | gave me a demonstration of this contraption and |
| Charles Melanson, the forefather of | | | | the functionality of this human-powered piece of |
| today’s Melanson family, had come to | | | | equipment was astounding. |
| today’s Annapolis River area with his wife | | | | The apothecary next door was in charge of |
| Marie Dugas in about 1664 and settled along the | | | | ensuring the health of the early settlers. Various |
| north shore of the river. The Melanson Settlement | | | | herbs would be crushed with a pestle and mortar |
| was an agricultural community employing the | | | | to provide remedies for common health problems. |
| Acadian dykeland farming techniques that were | | | | This was a harsh environment and many of the |
| unique in the colonies. In 1755 Charles' son | | | | original inhabitants did not survive the harsh |
| Ambroise and his family were deported from the | | | | winters. |
| Annapolis area by the English as part of the Great | | | | Several gentlemen’s quarters follow, each |
| Expulsion (“le grand derangement”) | | | | equipped with bunk beds and draw curtains for |
| once this area changed from French to British | | | | privacy. Generally each room was inhabited by |
| ownership. Wayne explained that six men, including | | | | two to four gentlemen and equipped with a table, |
| Ambroise's son-in-law Pierre Bellieveau initiated a | | | | chair, wardrobe, a large bench and a fireplace. The |
| mutiny on the boat and overpowered the crew. | | | | largest sleeping quarters are those of the |
| Pierre's son Amand returned to settle in the Clare | | | | Governor which are decorated with a smoked |
| region in southwestern Nova Scotia. | | | | moose hide, artwork originally produced by the |
| To this day, some descendants of Charles | | | | Mi’kmaq natives which was much admired |
| Melanson are still living right near the original | | | | by the French settlers. Wayne explained that |
| homestead that he founded in the 17th century. | | | | moose hide would often be worn to protect |
| Wayne commented that despite this tragic past, | | | | against the cold. The most effective way was to |
| people have survived and preserved their cultural | | | | wear the hairy side on the inside with the smooth |
| identity, a testament to human fortitude and | | | | part facing outside. |
| tenacity in the face of adversity. It was amazing | | | | The next building holds the fur storage area |
| to me that after this great diaspora of Acadian | | | | where furs from various animals are displayed, |
| settlers in the 18th century two ninth-generation | | | | including beaver, silver fox, bobcat, raccoon, |
| Acadian twin brothers would live and work right | | | | timber wolf, otter and lynx furs. Wayne informed |
| next to their ancestors’ original | | | | me that beaver fur was the most valuable fur |
| settlement, both bringing history to life for the | | | | since there was a big craze for beaver fur hats |
| area's visitors. | | | | at the European royal courts. Essentially the entire |
| Wayne is a presentation supervisor with Parks | | | | early settlement of Canada was a result of |
| Canada, the federal agency in charge of many of | | | | Europe’s fashion hunger for beaver fur. |
| Canada’s most significant heritage sites, | | | | Rabbit fur was also used to make hats, but in |
| and his appearance reflects the style of dress of | | | | order to remove the keratin from the hair, |
| early French settlers in the area. He explained to | | | | mercury had to be used which had severe |
| me that today he was dressed in the style of | | | | effects on the mental health of the craftsmen |
| working class people with a simple shirt and pants, | | | | producing the hats. Wayne explained that this is |
| covered by a heavy woolen cape against the cold. | | | | where the expression “mad as a |
| On his feet he was wearing wooden clogs, a | | | | hatter” comes from. |
| popular piece of footwear at the time. | | | | When we entered the wine cellar, my expert |
| We entered the habitation through the wooden | | | | guide pointed out that every man who resided |
| gate that features the coat of arms of Henri IV, | | | | here received 1.5 pints (about 1 litre) of wine a |
| King of France in 1605 when the original habitation | | | | day. Wine was considered much healthier since |
| would have been built. The coats of arms of the | | | | much of the water in the early communities was |
| two governors, Sieur de Mons and Sieur de | | | | polluted due to poor sanitary conditions. People |
| Poutrincourt, are also represented above the | | | | would toss their slob buckets into the rivers, |
| doorway. | | | | effectively contaminating their own drinking water |
| The entire Port-Royal complex consists of six | | | | supply. |
| attached wooden buildings located around a | | | | Next door we entered the trading room which |
| central courtyard. The buildings were | | | | was a room were barter transactions for basic |
| reconstructed from 1939 to 1940 and are a | | | | goods would take place. In a loft upstairs a |
| historically accurate replica of the original habitation. | | | | Mi’kmaq canoe as well as an original coffin |
| This project was a result of the efforts of Harriet | | | | is on display. The steep roof would help the snow |
| Taber Richardson of Cambridge, Massachusetts | | | | slide off during the long harsh winters. Wayne |
| who raised funds to bring in a Harvard-educated | | | | then took me outside to the Cannon Platform |
| archeologist for the authentic reconstruction of | | | | from where there is a great view over the |
| this early French settlement. | | | | Annapolis River. Any intruder approaching the area |
| The Port-Royal Habitation is an excellent example | | | | could easily be seen from this platform. |
| illustrating the lifestyle and hardships of the early | | | | Outside the Habitation is a monument honouring |
| French settlers and fur traders that settled in the | | | | Membertou, one of the great Mi’kmaq |
| eastern part of Canada. Wayne explained that the | | | | chiefs who helped the French adapt and survive in |
| original settlement held about 30 craftsmen and | | | | Acadia who together with his family was baptized |
| 15 gentlemen, including a surgeon, a lawyer and a | | | | in 1610. I thanked Wayne Melanson for his great |
| ship’s pilot. No women were residing in | | | | introduction to Port-Royal, this early place of |
| Port-Royal. | | | | French history. On an increasingly cloudy day I |
| We started our walk at the forge where metal | | | | made my way back to Annapolis Royal, stopping |
| goods were produced on site. The blacksmith was | | | | to take some pictures of a few beautiful house in |
| an important member of the community because | | | | Granville Ferry, the town located directly across |
| he produced the hardware needed for the | | | | from Annapolis Royal. Prior to an earlier bridge and |
| upkeep of the habitation. He also fabricated goods | | | | today’s causeway, Granville Ferry was |
| for trade with the Mi’kmaq First Nations | | | | indeed the location of a ferry service that would |
| People which contributed directly to the | | | | connect both towns by ship. |
| settlements financial well-being. | | | | Shortly after I arrived back in Annapolis Royal and |
| The kitchen next door was a place where geese, | | | | was more than ready for a tasty dinner. And I |
| rabbits and other interesting dishes would be | | | | would have a chance to see history brought to |
| prepared and fresh bread would be baked. The | | | | life in my much anticipated Garrison Graveyard |
| adjacent Common Room was decked out in 17th | | | | Tour, to be presented by Alan Melanson, the |
| century style with pewter tableware and was the | | | | other member of this duo of historic experts. |